Written by Seeta Lee, DSMG Contributor
Des Moines had high expectations for Chef Lynn Pritchard’s Table 128. The hype surrounding the restaurant’s revamp carried on for months until it opened at the beginning of May. That hype was hard to keep at bay for a true first impression, but as I never got to the original location, I was happy to go in with as little preconceived notion as I could for the reincarnation of this beloved restaurant.
Warm and Comfy Board Room?
The first step into Table 128 is mysterious. A dark blue curtain separates the door and host’s stand from the dining area. It’s like being in the wings of a theater stage, but smaller. Beyond the curtain, the dining area is a crisp, modern, yet warm space where that same dark blue extends to the linens and lush menus. The room teeters on feeling like an executive board room. Thankfully, colorful abstract art, tons of natural light, and subtle touches like irregularly shaped dishes steer Table 128 into a more welcoming feel.
While the generous patio looks like it will be a popular place for an after-work drink, the bar is the eyecatcher. The backsplash somehow combines maximalism and tidiness. Unlike most bars with hard, cheap stools, Table 128’s bar seating looks fabulously comfortable. I could see people hanging out there for hours to chat with friends and enjoy the atmosphere.
Smart, Skilled Service
Chef George Formaro once said he wants to feel like he’s going to be best friends with a server, even though he may never see them again. That’s the vibe our server provided. She was knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Her face lit up when she asked to tell us about the night’s special appetizer. After we’d ordered and devoured it, she asked what we thought and was delighted when we raved. She said she’d gone into the evening wanting to make sure all of her tables ordered it. When servers care that much, it’s a good sign.
Creative and Crafted
While Table 128 has an expansive bar menu, I rarely drink alcohol. So, I was thrilled to see spirit-free drinks that weren’t soda. My spouse went with banana lime lemonade ($6), and I opted for fluffy (or creamy) lavender lemonade ($8). The lemonade itself was outstanding, and I would order that again in a heartbeat. However, the added flavors were lost. Spending that much for flavored lemonades is this teetotaler’s pet peeve. I’m hoping future spirit-free offerings will be refined and, ideally, expanded into full-on mocktails. As it was only Table 128’s fourth day open, I have high hopes!
The Eats
The special our server encouraged us to order was chicken and mushroom arancini ($14) that seemed simple but really wasn’t. It was a divine combination of savory risotto and crunchy breading. Topping the arancini was a chicken chip (crispy chicken skin) that added fantastic texture. The arancini rested on sweet, refreshing corn and asparagus relish with a pleasing kick. That relish should be bottled and sold. We couldn’t get enough!
Our entrees couldn’t meet the arancini’s beauty, but they weren’t by any means weak. My risotto carbonara ($24) whispered to me to return for it on a cold winter’s day. I loved getting to mix in the egg yolk myself, and I loved the prosciutto bits. I wanted more of those because prosciutto bits are superior to bacon bits.
My spouse ordered the popular Lynn’s Burger ($19). That thing didn’t just drip; it poured. It is not for people who like to walk away with clean hands. There’s a lot going on with a gorgeously toasted sesame brioche bun, Dijon aioli, scene-stealing pickled pears, fried onions, and brie. Flavor-wise, it’s delicious. I coveted it. But the accompanying hand-cut fries? Those are in my top three for the best fries in town. They looked perfect. They were perfect. Period.
Our First Impressions
For opening week, the folks at Table 128 seemed keenly aware of the expectations they needed to match. In so many ways, they delivered. It can be a casual place for a craft cocktail on the patio, a third space for good-natured bar chats, or a spot to thrill friends, out-of-towners, dates, or all of the above. It’s especially good for dates because, even when full, it’s not too loud.
Best For
Elevated comfort food. Get a beautifully executed burger and fries, or get adventurous and trust the chefs.
Our Favorite Part
Who doesn’t have a crush on those famous, tiny, complimentary chocolate chip cookies that come with your bill?
We Have a Crush On
The flavors. Not sure it wasn’t mentioned enough, but every food item was dripping with flavor- it’ll keep you wanting to come back for more.
Make a Reservation and Keep Up with All Things Table 128 on Social!
Check out the menu at Table 128’s website, and see what’s new on their Instagram account. If you want to make a reservation (and you really do), do so at Tock!
Where Should Des Moines Girl Go Next?
What’s new in the Des Moines food scene? Got a place you want us to try? Des Moines Girl is always looking for opportunities to highlight locally-owned restaurants in the area. Shoot us a message if you’d like to suggest where we go next!
